Wednesday 22 November 2017

The Last Post

Yes, this is the last post. We're home! It's taken me a while to write this post because jetlag kept me from thinking clearly enough for a bit. We've also been thrown head-first back into the wind issue so our spare time has been limited.

But that's enough of reality! Back to the last leg of the trip.....

We left Vieste and had a long drive north. Some places we drove through were beautiful. One part reminded us of Piedmont with its vine-covered rolling hills and mountain villages. In the distance were beautiful snow-covered mountains. It's hard to get great photos through the car window though!



We left very early that day because the town we were heading to, Ravenna, is famous for its mosaics and most places where they can be found close at 5pm.

We checked in at about 3pm then headed straight out to start exploring. With map in hand and the route planned we made our way through churches and baptisteries discovering the amazing mosaics inside. From 400 to 700 AD, Ravenna was the capital of the western Roman Empire. Mosaics were all the rage at that time and some of the world's best early Christian mosaics can be found here.

We walked into our first church - Basilica di San Vitale -  and found that we were walking on the old mosaic floor! How are we going to leave anything for future generations if we are all walking on the mosaics? Then again, they've obviously lasted just fine for the last 1,500 years or so!



As nice as they were, it wasn't the floor mosaics that were so amazing though - stunning mosaics lined the domes and recesses of the church. There were many gold tiles used and the figures were incredibly accurate.






Add some paintings to the central dome and you have a pretty impressive church!



It was just a short walk across the lawn to the next stop, the Mausoleo de Gallo Placidia. From the outside, many of these buildings were quite plain.



The insides of these buildings were a different story though! I think this one was my favourite because it was much smaller so we could easily see the details up close and without craning our necks.





We moved on through the wet afternoon to our next stop, the Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo. Gosh these names are hard to say - and harder to type! The mosaics here were absolutely stunning. High up on on one wall, 26 martyrs walked towards Christ, each one with his own expression and features. On the opposite wall, 22 virgins did the same. Each figure seriously looked like no other one. It was incredible, especially seeing they were so old! They have been restored though.







We then went looking for Dante's tomb - Dante the poet died here - but we didn't find it. What we did find though was far more interesting! In the back of a church was an underground area that was designed as a tomb for a priest. It had a mosaic floor. It was renovated in the 1970s but water kept leaking in. It's now underwater and has goldfish swimming around over the old mosaic floor. Strangely, there's a table under the water too - we never found out why! It was very strange and incredibly atmospheric.



We finished the last night of our trip with a wonderful meal at a very cool restaurant and bar. The next day we drove the airport, dropped off the car and began our loooonnnngggg trip home. One bonus of the trip though was that I got to see my scrappy friend Jelissa! It's always so lovely to catch up with her, even if it was only quick.



So there we are, two Aussies finally on our way home. We landed in Melbourne and our kids were waiting for us. I had been dreaming of this moment for a long time and, needless to say, it was very exciting to see them again! So exciting that I forgot to take a photo!



Looking back on the trip, we had some really special times. It's funny but the best times seemed to involve friends, both new and old! We saw some amazing places and had some hard times and some boring times but mostly great times.

A few of you have asked me questions about favourite places and where best to visit so we've put together a list of our Top 10 places from this trip. Ok - we couldn't choose just 10 so we ended up with 12!

No 1: The Lycian Way, Turkey.
This walk is one of the hardest, and most rewarding, walks we've ever done. The days were long and the terrain was often difficult but at every turn there was another ancient tomb, an old ruined town or a gorgeous bay with mountains tumbling down to crystal clear waters. We climbed mountains, swam in the sea (once - the water was still cold!) and explored forests and beaches, The people were amazing - they were so welcoming and so warm. We felt we could trust anybody and we always felt safe. The food was incredible and there was always soooo much of it!
If you don't like crowds, visit Turkey asap. A combination of perceived danger from terrorism or war plus a president who seems out to offend every other nearby country, has kept the tourists away. As soon as people start coming back, its going to be packed. Go now!



No 2: Cappadoccia, Turkey

The surreal landscape in this remote area was out of this world. 'Fairy chimney' stacks of limestone rose up out of the barren landscape like gnarly fingers reaching for the sky. For centuries people have lived in these stacks, hollowing out the stone to form homes and churches. The outside appearance looks like something from a fairy story with little windows and doors dotting the weird walls. If you like, you can take a hot air balloon ride over this incredible landscape. We've never seen anything else like it in the world.



No 3: Lake Bohinj, Slovenia
Oh my gosh - this place was so incredibly beautiful! It reminded us a lot of Switzerland with its snow-capped mountains, manicured lawns and flower-boxes at the windows of houses, but it was somehow wilder and not as formal as Switzerland. We walked and rode bikes past alpine meadows and the incredibly gorgeous lake. I swam and kayaked on that lake. This was a really special place.



No 4: Swiss Mountains
We had a fantastic few days with John's old friend, Matt, in Murren. The weather here was cool but sunny, perfect for showing off those spectacular mountains and emerald green valleys. Nobody in the world does alpine houses like the Swiss - those timbered houses alive with flowers are simply sensational. Every turn brought us a spectacular chocolate-box view. I had one of my best days of the whole trip riding a bike downhill through valleys and stunning villages, all with huge mountains towering over them. At a later point of the trip, we again came through Switzerland, this time staying next to Lake Geneva. Again, the views and the countryside were simply superb! PS - It's such an expensive country though!




No 5: Piedmont
This wine-growing region of north-western Italy had us in raptures. It had it all - vines covering rolling hills with their spectacular autumn colours, castles perched on hilltops, fantastic food, white truffles and amazing wines. What more can anyone ask for?




No 6: Halki/Greek Islands
Yes, Halki is our favourite Greek island by far, however that's got a lot to do with the great times we have there with John's family. We also absolutely loved Naxos. Again it's got a lot to do with great times with friends! But seriously, Greece has that special something to me. I don't know what it is but I love it!


No 7: Istria, Croatia
This is a part of the world that I think is going to boom tourist-wise. Like an undiscovered Italy, Istria has amazing food and wine, truffles, spectacular scenery and friendly people, but without the crowds. There are ancient, atmospheric towns and gorgeous beaches. Aussies are now starting to pour into southern Croatia but the north is yet to be overrun.


No 8: Montenegro
Montenegro had a few key standout places for us - Kotor (because of the wonderful people) and the national parks (for the fantastic scenery). We felt right at home in our wonderful apartment owned by Zoja in Kotor. We made friends with the grill guy across the road and had a great time with the cheese'n'prosciutto man on the side of a mountain, even though he spoke no English! We loved Lovcen National Park for its evergreen beauty and Durmitor National Park for its jaw-dropping mountains!


No 9: Saint Hippolyte, Alsace, France
This stunning village was an absolute delight to explore with Fads and Mark. This is wine country and the pretty little town was busy with small tractors bringing in load after load of freshly picked grapes. To get to our rooms we had to walk past the wine-making equipment. You can't get much more genuine than that! The town was incredibly pretty with the old German-style buildings painted in pastel colours. There were other stunning villages nearby but for some reason they were overrun with tourists but Saint Hippolyte wasn't. To top it off, they made the best whites........


No 10: Korcula, Croatia
This is one of those places that is lovely, but it is the people that make it special. Korcula is an island in southern Croatia and the old walled main town sits spectacularly on a peninsula. We stayed in a room right beside the walled town and our room overlooked the square beneath. We soon learned that the square was the hub of local life. Our host, Zvonko, hung out there and we soon met Mariana, the lovely shop owner next door. The old town was fantastic and I loved riding a bike to a nearby beach for a swim. It was a fun and magical time!


No 11: Pietrapertosa, Italy 
One of our last stops, Pietrapertosa was stunning! Perched on a mountain top, and backed by huge, craggy fingers of rock, this little town was a real gem. It was surrounded by beautiful forests and afforded stunning views over the mountains and valleys. The town was one of the more genuine places we stayed at in Italy. You could still see little old ladies in black walking the streets, market day provided a chance to get fruit and veges and the locals would all say hello to us. We had a great time in the one local restaurant that was open. We froze but it was worth every icicle!


No 12: Ephesus, Turkey
These Roman ruins are the largest in the word outside Rome. They were huge, yet only 20% of them have been unearthed. It was once one of the greatest cities in the world. There were plenty of tourists here yet the place was so large that it didn't matter. We saw an entire suburb covered and enclosed to protect the painted walls and mosaic floors while they were being uncovered and restored. Amazing!



So that's it for our big adventure. It was a truly wonderful journey and we will never forget it.

Thank you for sharing it with us. :)


John and Heather

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