Sunday, 21 May 2017

Heading for the Hills

Hello again. Thanks to all of you who are making comments on our posts. It's nice to know you're enjoying them :)

We finished our big walk and bussed back to the town we first arrived in. We had left a bag of gear there so it was wonderful to wear some different clothes! We caught up with a few friends and made some new ones. All good fun!

A very interesting experience was getting John's hair cut. I only wish I had realised how entertaining it was going to be and had taken more photos!

For a Turkish shave and haircut, first use an old-fashioned brush and soap to lather up the beard. Shave it with a cutthroat razor. Yikes!


Next trim the beard with clippers (the trend apparently is to shave it shorter at the sides and longer at the chin). Then apply a mud mask to the face! (Wish I'd got a photo of this one.)

This next step is where it gets really interesting. The barber lights a burning thing on a handle then quickly taps it into ears and anywhere where there are annoying hairs that need to be singed off! (You can't quite see the flame in the photo.)


Next the barber actually cuts the hair. This is followed by a hair wash then the hair is brushed and blow-dried to look like Kenny Rogers! Then there is a finger-pulling and almost whip-lashing massage before the performance is finished.

This is how he ended up looking but we went straight home and wet his hair down and it looked fine then!



We were sad to leave Antalya. It was a lovely place.



Our next destination was a lakeside town up in the mountains. It was starting to get quite hot near the coast and it was time to escape. We had a 3-hour bus journey to get there. The buses are amazing. Every long-haul bus has a host who hands out tea, coffee and snacks, just line an airline host. Also like a plane, each seat has a screen with movies, games etc. I thought I'd pass the time by trying out Angry Birds (I figured I didn't need to understand Turkish to play it). I couldn't get past level 15 of the first level!

Here's a pic of a large bus company name. It makes us laugh every time. (It means Camel Coach)!



We arrived at the lakeside town of Egidir and the view from our place was superb!



One hitch though was that they had a plague of mosquito-like bugs. Fortunately, they didn't bite but you couldn't leave windows open and they were just annoying. There were millions of them!



We went there to walk and had a really wonderful walk one day. We joined two English girls, one of whom lives in Egidir with her Turkish boyfriend. After slogging up yet another hill we had a superb view from the top. The walk down the other side was lovely and green.


The two English girls were staying at a pansiyon in the next village for the night so they stopped for a break. While we were saying goodbye to them we were joined by Jose, a Puerto Rican staying in our hotel, and the three of us headed to the next village together.  There were no shops there so we asked the lady at the pansiyon to make us some lunch. She there turned out to be fantastic. She couldn't speak a word of English but she babbled away to us as if we could understand her. She was so bright a bubbly. We all sat down on cushions on the floor, Turkish-style, and she cooked us up an amazing spread.


The two English girls joined us later and one can speak Turkish. She learned that the lady had left school when she was young and had spent her life being a wife and mother. She milks cows and grows fruit and vegetables. She and her husband also grow roses to sell the oil for perfumes. They have 4 children and they have worked hard to put all the children through school. All the ones that are old enough have gone to university but the lady was very sad when her eldest daughter decided to get married at 18. She showed us a photo of her kids. The girls were absolutely stunning. They could have been models. They were modern kids in western clothes.

This woman seemed really intelligent and I suspect she has done everything she can to give her kids a better life than she has had. If she lived in Europe, Australia or the US, I'm sure she would have a really good job herself. I suspect she was probably quite lonely and she was certainly very excited to have us all there. It really makes you appreciate the opportunities we have in a first-world country.

We sadly said goodbye and had a fantastic walk to the next village. The walking here was soooo much easier than on the Lycian Way. We were walking on dirt and grass, not rocks! At one stage we came to a steep descent and we hesitated about which way to go. This wonderful old man pointed the way. He then proceeded to show us all the herbs en-route, picking them so we could small them and explaining that you make tea with them.



He carried an old gunny-sack and at one stage he produced a loaf of bread from it and offered it to us. We didn't accept but it is typical of the incredible hospitality of the Turks. He led us all the way down to the village then pointed the way for us to go when he left us. He was so sweet - and so sure-footed! We slipped and slid down the steep path but he didn't stumble once. I wonder how many people at home could do the walk that he just did at his age?



We wandered through the village. Typical of old villages, houses were always falling down while others were being built. The Turks don't seem to like renovating old places.


We got a bit lost going through the village but, as always, someone was more than willing to help. This guy was a character. He led us through the village showing us off to people! We had a lot of laughs with him and bought him a tea at the end.


There was a festival happening the next day so we joined in. The format was very similar to the last one we went on - everyone walks to a destination where activities happen and a lunch is served. The walk to the top of a nearby mountain was superb but it was really hot. Thanks goodness we stopped the Lycian Way when we did - I'm no good in the heat.

We could see the peninsula we were staying on in the huge lake.



People gathered in one place in the lovely green oak trees. It was a gorgeous setting.


It was some sort of kids' sport day and the main thing we saw was a competition that was a bit like apple-bobbing but it involved sticking your face in what appeared to be some sort of porridge. The kids got covered in it. It was entertaining for everyone!


We all had lunch but, just like the last festival, most people just threw their rubbish on the ground. It was heartbreaking to see.

We enjoyed just sitting there people-watching. This photo shows a typical mix of dress you get in the women. One woman has the black coat on that is the most conservative dress here. (You very rarely see a full chador here - that's more a middle-eastern thing). The lady on the left has conservative clothes on - full coverage and headscarf. The teenage girl in the centre is dressed like any westerner, although the Turks usually wear jeans not shorts or short skirts. The little girl is totally hip in her Frozen t-shirt!


We often see ladies with very different levels of Muslim dress together in one group like this. Two girls can be walking down the street together and one will have full coverage and headscarf and the other will be in 3/4 pants and a t-shirt. Everybody just seems to accept everyone else's personal choices.

We were supposed to head west next but John found out that a favourite singer of his, Yasmine Hamdan, is playing at a music festival in Cappadocia so we are heading there next instead!


Gule gule! (Bye!)

Heather

Friday, 19 May 2017

The Last of the Lycian Way

Greetings from wild, windy, rainy Turkey! Who would have thought we'd cop thunderstorms and hail when we headed to the hills to escape the heat?

But back to the Lycian Way....

We decided that we weren't going to get the whole walk done in the time we had so we picked the next section we wanted to do and bussed to it. The bus services in Turkey are amazing - far better than ours!

We arrived at this little ramshackle town called Olympos. It was just a collection of bungalows and restaurants and was very reminiscent of south-east Asia. It must have been created in the 70's cos it had a real hippy feel about it. It was incredibly cheap. We stayed in tiny wooden bungalows - cute but a bit squishy.


From here we explored the ruins of Olympos (not to be confused with the Greek Mt Olympus). They were amazing! Ruined walls disappeared into the jungle, arches hovered tentatively over our heads and ancient tombs from different eras littered the area.






There isn't a lot of wildlife around but this bright lizard hanging around the ruins was cute!



The ruins finish at a gorgeous beach that is a mix of pebbles and sand. Tempting as a swim was, the water was still just a little bit cold to let us get in.



We started walking again from here and soon passed a roadside pet feeding station. The Turks love their dogs and cats and they feed strays all the time.



We started with a long, hot slog up a very steep hill to the Chimaera. This is a very weird place where, for about 2,500 years, flames have been burning on the rocky mountainside. The flames just come straight out of the rock. If you extinguish them they reignite. Tradition has it that the flames were caused by a mythical creature that breathed fire. It was killed by a hero riding Pegasus, the winged horse. From a scientific point of view, a methane-based gas seeps from the earth and ignites when it comes in contact with oxygen. I think I like the myth better!




Our lunch stop that day was at a village renown for trout farming. They build these amazing restaurants right over the rivers. We had a fantastic lunch there! It was great fuel for a big day's walk up the side of a mountain.



We stayed overnight in a small town then kept heading up to cross over a shoulder of Mt Olympos at about 1800 metres. The walk was hard but rewarding. 




This stile was inventive to say the least!



At the top, the weather closed in completely.



As soon as crossed to the other side of the mountain, the weather changed to blue skies and sunshine. The views here were even more stunning than the other side. We walked next to snow in places.




This was one of my favourite days on the Lycian Way. The footing was so much better here - most of the time we were actually walking on dirt, not rocks. We walked through cedar forests and the smell of cedar was wonderful! And of course, those views were amazing.

To top it off we stayed at a fantastic pansiyon that night. It was run by a husband and wife, Suleyman and Zuhre. We had a roomy wooden cabin and ate home-cooked meals prepared from their incredible garden. They even grew the chicken we ate! (Sorry to our vegetarian kids!) They spoke no English but we managed to learn about their kids and a few other basics. It was wonderful.



We appreciated the food even more when we saw how much hard work goes into growing it! Everything is done by hand. Herbs are drying on a tray beside us in the photo above and Zuhre toiled hard to plant seedlings below.



It was only a half-day walk to our final destination. I had to sneak one more flower pic in here!



Goats were common along the entire trail. The ones here were in better condition than the ones in the tougher country at the start of the walk though.




With some degree of sadness we entered our final village. They often have enormous plane trees in villages that seats are built under to create a public shaded area. This town had heaps of plane trees. This one is supposed to be hundreds of years old.



What a trip it was! Although we probably only covered about half of the actual distance, it took us three and a half weeks, including days off to rest and explore, and we saw so many amazing things. There were ancient ruins, hospitable people, spectacular views, mountains, seas, fun towns and rural scenes. This is a country of such variety. We absolutely loved this walk and would recommend it to anyone who loves walking and exploring.

And finally, a shot of the boots that carried us all that way!



Hooroo for now.

Heather

Sunday, 14 May 2017

Along the Lycian Way

Hello again! I'm having a bit of trouble keeping these blog posts up to date. I hope to get a few more up over the next week or two - but then again I keep thinking that then we get busy and I don't get it done!

We made a big realisation while we were holed up in Kas, in Turkey's best hotel (in our humble opinion). The Lycian Way is depicted as a month-long walk but we realised that this allowed no time for breaks or for actually seeing anything. We wanted to walk for about a month so we decided to start skipping some sections.

We got a lift to a small town and were dropped off outside the mosque. This gorgeous old lady was cleaning the mosque and was quite fascinated by us.



We didn't have to walk far to the ruins of Apollonia. It was a bit of a scramble climbing around it but it had a couple of cool Lycian tombs.


We had a lovely walk and stayed the night in a tiny village - ok it consisted of one property but it was still a village! The place was very cool but it also felt kinda weird. I'm not sure why. The house was 200 years old and looked gorgeous.


This was our bed. Very romantic but not necessarily very comfortable!


Everything was very worn. Check out the sheets. This patch even has a stitched fold for extra discomfort!


Dad - this photo's for you. This is the original door locking system. To open it you put your finger into a slot in the door jam at the top of the door and this lifts the chock of wood. The door swings open and another chock drops into place keeping it open. To close it, you lift the rear chock and the door locks closed again, being held shut by the first chock. It's very clever.


The next morning we explored the very atmospheric ruins right next to our place. The site is called Aperlae. Part of it has slipped into the sea after earthquakes. It was fantastic! I don't know how far above the waterline this old tomb was originally but it's now being lapped by water.


Morning sun poured in between the roofless walls.


Even though the almost abandoned town was largely in ruins, some parts were very photogenic.


We walked to the next town, Ucagiz, and stayed in a great pansion. The small town was built in and around a collection of old ruins. The Turks have little respect for the multitude of ruins scattering their country so towns just grow around them. We found so many weird examples of the old and the new mixing. We saw a ruined houses being used as a garage. The satellite dish below is set up in front of two different styles of Lycian tombs.


That's one hell of a car park backdrop.


"Give me a tomb among the gum trees...."


Our pansion had a great garden - in it grew mulberries, oranges, lemons, a type of local apricot and many others. You just reach out of the balcony window, pick fruit and eat it! I had a ball attacking the mulberry tree. It makes for messy fingers though!


We caught a ride on a boat to the next town. Mustafa, who we nicknamed Captain Fantastic, was at the helm. We were most of the way there when the engine conked out! It refused to start again so Mustafa just pulled out his phone and called someone. We sat bobbing on the water enjoying the beautiful scenery. Soon, help turned up and we were towed to land. We sure can't get the RACV to respond that quickly at home!




We explored the amazing ruins of Myra at Demre.


There was a whole wall of stunning old tombs.


Unfortunately, neither the town nor the pansion we were booked into were very nice so we paid our pansion out, hopped on a bus and took off again.

Gotta go but I'll hopefully be back again soon!

Cheers,
Heather