First of all, everything you order comes with bread. Sadly, 9 times out of 10, we're not talking about the fabulous Turkish pide we have at home. We're just talking about white bread, admittedly in nice crusty loaves. The Turks eat bread with absolutely everything. Usually a whole crusty loaf is considered the right amount for one or two people!
All accommodation places provide breakfast. This is usually a feast. Most include chopped tomatoes and cucumbers, olives, an assortment of cheeses, eggs, homemade jams, honey, tea and loads of bread. On the trail this is welcome!
Dinners are also included with your accommodation when you're in a village with no shops. These meals are always at least four courses! They start with a soup - which has always been fantastic - then followed my an assortment of mezes (dips and small snacks), followed by the main course, usually a meat and wonderful vegies, plus a salad and then some sort of desert. By the time we get through all this we just about roll off to bed!
Dinner for two at Fatma's pansiyon.
The amazing thing is that almost everything is grown in people's gardens. Everything is so fresh and tasty! Vegetarian dishes are easy to get too.
Lunches on the trail can be anything - we've survived on chips and peanuts a few times when we've been nowhere near a town. In the towns, one of our favourite meals is a gozleme - a type of pancake usually filled with spinach and cheese. Ladies make these on a special hot plate over a fire.
HOW TO MAKE A GOZLEME (pronounced goz lemmie)
1. Roll out the dough that you prepared earlier. Use a long, thin rolling pin and keep rolling the dough until it is large and very thin.
2. Sprinkle on the filling to half of the gozleme. The filling is traditionally a local spinach and a bit of cheese but in more touristy places you can get minced meat and potato plus sweet versions like Nutella and banana or honey, lemon juice and sugar.
3. Fold the gozleme in half. Use your fingers to seal the edges and pat most of the air out of it.
4. Lift the thin gozleme very carefully on to the hotplate and cook it on one side.
5. Flip it over then brush it with olive oil.
6. When it's ready, lift it off the hotplate and cut into pieces.
7. Enjoy with the ubiquitous chopped tomatoes and cucumbers. This one also came with honey (different, but it worked!). The pomegranate and orange juice was the perfect accompaniment!
We've had some truly stunning meals - fresh, tasty and healthy. Afiyet olsun! (Bon appetit!)
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